Even at normal operating temperatures, the nail never needs to get as hot as it does with a torch, reducing the amount of concentrate that gets carbonized (burned onto the nail) and reducing the overall stress applied to your rig. This is no longer a problem with the e-nail in fact, the flexibility of temperature control allows e-nail users to benefit from the use of a “carb-cap” to slowly and carefully vaporize concentrate at low temperatures, allowing for a greater terpene profile to be expressed (albeit increasing ‘holdup’ or accumulation of reclaim within a given piece). When using a torch, not heating up the nail enough can lead to a “cold hit” during which some portion of concentrate doesn’t vaporize and simply collects in the bottom of the nail, waiting to be burned off during the next heating. In fact, most e-nails use so little power that they could be left on (in a safe place) for substantial periods of time without any real damage to your piece or power bill. Though heating might take a little longer than with a torch (it usually takes about a minute to reach a steady temperature), its not so bad as to cancel out the convenience of not using the torch.
Operation is simple: a heating coil sits on a specialized titanium nail and its temperature is set via a variable controller. The latest and greatest dabbing technology comes in the form of the “e-nail” short for “electric nail.” The e-nail utilizes an electrical circuit to get the nail hot via induction heating rather than the direct heat of a torch. Aside from looking like straight up hard drugs, torches make it easy to set your surroundings on fire and the combustion of torch fuel (butane or propane) releases carbon monoxide which can become dangerous in poorly-ventilated areas. The days of hot knife hits are long gone but the need for a butane-powered soldering torch has always been an off-putting aspect of owning a dab rig. The cannabis concentrate industry has become quite sophisticated over the last few years and just as we have advanced with regards to the quality of concentrates, so too have we advanced with regards to dabbing technology Good luck and happy hunting!įriends, we are living in a golden age of dabbing. If you’re on the market for more of an art p, remember to look out for defects and make sure everything has been melted in properly! It never hurts to contact artists directly, many will make commission pieces at surprisingly good prices (especially lesser known artists). So next time you’re out shopping for a simple clear rig, don’t get tricked into paying more than $100! You can find some very fine options for around $50 or less. It has more design and work put in to it.it uses colored glass (especially cobalt, light matte colors and silver-infused colors).Let’s summarize what we know! A piece should cost more if:
More renowned manufacturers like Roor are guaranteed to function well but you often end up paying extra for the brand name with no practical benefits (especially these days with so many incredible glass artists working in the US). Still, unlike smaller Chinese dry pipes (which should be absolutely avoided), many of these rigs are totally functional and can make a good bargain purchase for under $100. Inspect carefully!Ĭhinese glass with low quality control these are hastily made assembly line rigs which often have sloppy welds and uneven features. This reduced expansion provides for much higher thermal resistance which makes it perfect for tough, heat resistant glass vessels everything from vacuum manifolds to dab rigs (which is why dab rigs don’t explode into a million tiny pieces when you hit them with a torch! A propane torch is barely hot enough to dull a sharp point of borosilicate glass but can easily melt soft glass).įlaws: 1.
The key to borosilicate’s resilience is the presence of boron which gives the material a low coefficient of expansion- a measure of how much the glass expands when heated. This glass is much harder and more heat-resistant than typical soft glass (lime glass) and requires a much hotter working temperature. With rare exception, glass pipes are made out of pyrex aka borosilicate glass (also called just boro). It goes without saying that bigger, heavier pieces consisting of more glass should cost more but why would a disk-perc dab rig from one manufacturer cost $100 more than someone else’s? How can you tell “good quality” glass from “bad quality” glass? In this article, we’ll cover why not all glass is created equal and help you figure out if you’re paying a fair price for a piece. Check the inventory of any head shop and it’ll be hard not to notice the wide range of prices on functionally similar glass pieces.
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